Concord Grapes for Dessert

Have you eaten Concord grapes? They're everything kids don't like about grapes--tough skins, big bitter seeds. The flavor is so intense and wonderful that one grape takes a long time to eat and consider. Also, they are one thing that hasn't been hybridized to extend the growing season. They are only available in the late summer, as they should be.

We were Italian vegetarians last night:

Mushrooms with Tomatoes and Mint

Fennel au Gratin

Lentils with Wine, Onions, and Tomatoes

Homemade bread

The fennel was sliced and parboiled for five minutes before tossing it with bread crumbs and grated Asiago cheese, then baked for 15 minutes.

Charmoula and Fennel

My food pictures haven't worked out very well lately: some mediocre meals are very photogenic, while sublime-tasting creations look unappetizing on the computer screen. Hence the loaf pictured above, while I'm really writing about fennel.

Last night for dinner I served fresh rockfish (red snapper) with charmoula, baked sweet potatoes, and fennel with raisins and pine nuts.

The charmoula sauce, sometimes spelled chermoula, seems to be ubiquitous in Middle Eastern countries. I spread some on the fish fillets, then pan-fried them in olive oil until just cooked through. Dad has also used this on a large piece of grouper and then baked it.

Charmoula

1/2 cup cilantro leaves

4 cloves garlic

1 teaspoon cumin

1 teaspoon paprika

1/2 teaspoon ground chile pepper

Juice of 1 lemon

3 tablespoons olive oil

Blend or process until well chopped. Use as a sauce or marinade.

Fennel with Raisins and Pine Nuts (based on recipe by Jack Bishop)

1 or 2 fennel bulbs

1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

4 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons pine nuts

2 tablespoons raisins

Salt and pepper

Mince and reserve a tablespoon of fennel fronds, if attached.

Slice fennel bulb into 1/2-inch strips. Saute in the oil for about 15 minutes, or until tender. Add garlic, pine nuts, and raisins and saute 2 more minutes. Season to taste, garnish with minced fronds, and serve hot.